This was another basket case car I bought. It was in central Florida & was full of leaves. The body was in surprisingly good shape with only a small rust hole in a lower fender and on the floorboard and one under the battery.
The motor was shot, so out it came & in went another Chevy V8! The transmission is from a 1998 Trans Am. As with the Supra, this car uses a 1998 GM computer and wiring system along with a custom HP Tuners tune to make everything operate. The L33 is the high output all aluminum truck motor rated at 315 HP stock. I added LS6 yellow valvesprings and a Z06 cam to the motor, along with an LS6 clutch. The car uses a stock C4 Corvette driveshaft, and the differential was upgraded to a Mazda Turbo 2 limited slip unit. The exhaust consists of Pacesetter long tube headers and dual 2.25" pipes into a pair of oval mufflers with the stock RX7 tips.
The motor cost $800 from a junkyard and the T56 was $500 from a private seller.
The wheels are 18" ADR Classics, 8.5" wide front & rear. The fronts slightly rub on bumps, they need 5mm spacers. The rears fit perfectly. I believe the offset is 35mm on these, and the tires are 225/40-18.
The dash was replaced with a custom Racepak digital unit. I replaced the sound system with a Clarion double DIN head unit and the speakers with Infinity reference series units.
As with my other cars, I am migrating the pages from another website and will update info & pics as time and bandwidth allows.
Jan 30
The car has had a few bugs as I have driven it. I've spent some time on these recently:
New brake parts were installed on all 4 wheels- Hawk pads and Brembo rotors, along with ATP fluid.
The exhaust under the car was coated with Techline black ceramic.
The fuel line by the exhaust pipe was wrapped with heat shielding.
The exhaust pipe under the fuel line was wrapped with header wrap.
A GM fuel tank pressure sensor was plumbed into the tank vent line and then connected to the GM PCM.
The starter operated intermittently. I found I was using a feed that was past the cut out relay. I found & used the direct feed from the switch and also added a remote solenoid on the firewall since the starter is close to the headers.
I still have a bug where the idiot lights stay on. I'm studying wiring to see what the cause is for this. One of the guides I read when I did the conversion said you can pull the Mazda ECU (computer) but apparently this is not the case. I've reinstalled it only to find I had the wrong one for the car. I'm changing to the correct one & will have to troubleshoot the idiot light cause.
The AC does not work despite being charged and holding a charge. I am replacing the Logicon control unit to see if this is the cause.
Apr 14
I have been driving the Mazda on occasion without issue over the winter and had not driven it in any warmer weather until recently. It began cutting off and I noted the fuel line was hot. After letting it sit a few minutes I was able to drive it a few miles and this happened again. I determined the exhaust under the car was heating the aluminum line and causing vapor lock. I am planning on coating the exhaust pipes under the car since I have felt the heat on the tunnel & floor as well. I will also move the fuel line away from where it is now.
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18" ADR Classic wheels.
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Power steering converted to manual for engine clearance.
2005 Chevy L33 high output aluminum block motor with 2004 Corvette Z06 cam, LS6 valve springs, and Thunder Racing short pushrods. Camaro oil pan, LS6 clutch, C4 Corvette driveshaft, and Mazda Turbo 2 limited slip differential.
Clarion head unit, Infinity speakers, Racepak dash. Battery mounted in trunk.
New top, maybe add flared front fenders & spacers for front wheels. Sand & re-paint red.
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