This is a project that began in September 2007. The concept is to take a Chevy Truck motor, install it into a BMW 5 Series wagon, and turbocharge it while maintaining a stock appearance as much as possible.
The parts used in this car are from several common vehicles, with the exception of the differential, which is a large case limited slip unit from a BMW 7 series, the radiator, which is from a same year (94) 540i, and the calipers/rotors (see below).
The cooling fan is from a 95-96 Lincoln Mk 8. The computer & wiring harness are from a 1998 Camaro/Trans Am. The oil pan (worst part of the project) is from a 2008 Hummer H3 Alpha 5.3L Gen 4 motor & uses a metric oil filter. The motor is from a 2005 GMC Sierra, the accessories are from a C5 (97-04) Corvette, except for the PS pump, which is from the BMW motor, and the intake and fuel rails are from a Camaro/Trans Am (not LS6). The injectors are 42# units. The cam is from a 2004 Corvette Z06 and was number matched to verify it was the later cam. The valvesprings were replaced with LS6 units for a higher RPM range. The heads are "317" casting from a 6.0L truck motor for lower CR due to the turbo. An aftermarket oil cooler and sandwich adapter (at the oil filter boss on the pan) are in place. The intercoolers are ATI high flow (3" in/out) from a Camaro/Trans Am application.
The motor was mounted using stock BMW mounts on some angle iron brackets bolted to the BMW crossmember. I had to section and reweld the piece between the control arms for oil pan clearance, and added a small skidplate there. I also sectioned & rewelded the trans cross member with some angle iron and used a GM trans mount.
There is a used Tial branded wastegate, the ad said 10 PSI on the spring. A new OBX blow off valve is in place on the cold side.
The brake master cylinder & hydroboost are from a 1997 Mustang Cobra.
The clutch is a stock LS7 unit from a GM dealer- got in a deal at the Corvette forum- I don't know the application for replacement, but believe it like most other Gen 3 parts is universal. The clutch MC is stock BMW for the car. A SS braid hose connects the MC to the throwout, and a remote bleeder was installed when I did this.
The transmission is from a 2002 Camaro/Trans Am. The shifter is stock GM, using the BMW boots- the wagon had a MT option in Germany, and sedan parts fit here also. The driveshaft will fit a Mustang, I will have to double check the years, but think it was an early 90's V8 unit. I got it from a driveshaft place and it is aluminum. The front yoke was replaced to mate with the T56. The BMW drives the speedometer from the diff, so the T56 works fine in this regard.
The adapter to the differential is explained in detail on the LS1tech buildup on the car- it is a Spicer or Rockford standard part that another member found. I drilled & tapped the holes in it to match the BMW differential.
The fuel pump was replaced with a 255 LPH unit from a guy that I had bought two others from and I'm using them w/o issue in my other converted cars. They are fine pumps, but he shafted me on this one by not sending the filter part, and then acting like it was my fault- it was like 2 weeks to get the parts due to his screwups. It is equivalent to the Walbro GSS series. I have forgotten his name and in any event would never buy from him again. A Walbro would be a direct replacement.
The differential is identified as above. The halfshafts and outer carriers are from a BMW 540i automatic- these were needed to fit the larger diff. The brakes were recently changed to 540i rear (thicker) rotors and calipers, and early 90's 850i single piston calipers/brackets/rotors- a bolt on upgrade with larger diameter rotors. These are getting hard to find, so future work would likely be another type of caliper or sending these out to be rebuilt. The pads are EBC red stuff front & rear. The rotors were name brand, I think Brembo- I don't buy the cheap China rotors.
I think that is the gist of what was replaced from other cars.
I added a three gauge panel to the top of the dash- mech oil pressure, vac/boost, and voltmeter. I did the bulbs red to match the BMW lighting. All gauges work in the car. The cruise control works. The stock underhood unit was retained and connected to the GM throttle body via some throttle cable parts from Pegasus Auto Racing (available online).
The exhaust manifolds are a Sanderson block hugger on the driver side, and a custom log on the passenger side. The exhaust behind the turbo is a 3" single system to a single in/dual out muffler. Once the leaks up front are corrected, it would be a lot quieter and boost sooner (see below).
I have extensive diagrams for most of what I did- wiring, plumbing, etc. I am printing these to put into a notebook for the next owner, and will burn all the digital pics I have onto a DVD at full resolution for reference.
As far as daily use, these are the current problems/nags-
1) All the idiot lights are on- battery, ABS, SRS, Parking brake. I think there must be a common cause here but have not done any wiring tracing. When I had the car on stands, none of these lights were on. The alternator is putting out almost 14V @ idle on my volt gauge and also on my multimeter, so there is no reason for that light to be on. The battery was replaced with an Optima red top a few months back, the old Interstate one had died out due to age. See #3 also.
2) The windshield has a crack in it, about 8" long at the lower passenger side. Since the car is still insured, I can have this replaced for free and am going to call this in next week. I expect they will have to order the glass, so probably a couple of weeks on this.
3) When I first drove the car, there was a whirring noise at the passenger rear. I noted the rotors were worn very thin, and at that point did the brake upgrade. The noise is still there, and some believe it may be the ABS sensor, and this could be triggering the dash lamps. The part is close to $100, so I have not fooled with it.
4) The front end, really the steering wheel- needs to be aligned. the shop I take my cars to could not get it on the lift ramp to do it since the spoiler is so low. The car drives straight down the road, but the wheel is off a little. I had the steering parts off to do the oil pan fitment. The center link and tie rod ends are new, and I lined it up as best I could from under the car.
5) The body is in very good condition, no rust. A few dents and dings. The inner fender by the turbo had to be hammered in/out for clearance.
6) There is no windshield washer setup. I could not locate a bottle to fit. A universal setup could be adapted.
7) The AC when I charged it was leaking at the drier- I got the wrong one and ended up using one from an earlier BMW 3 series- like an 86. It lacks an extra port the 88-95 5 series units have. Since I replaced it and charged it, I have not seen any leaks. However, the dash controls will not cycle the clutch. I wired it to mimic the GM system, and used a GM pressure sensor. The problem must stem from the AC demand wire that went to the BMW computer. I used this to tie into the GM computer (PCM), and then all the wires from here on out are the same as the GM setup since it has a GM compressor.
8) The headliner is worn and loose in the rear. One of the overhead speaker grilles will not stay in place. The leather is in good condition and is not torn.
9) The car needs to have the exhaust from the motor to the turbo replaced or rewelded. The car does not make boost until fairly high in the RPM range- close to 4K RPM. It could be the MPT70 is too large, but I think most of it is the leaks.
10) The car needs a professional tune. I bought an LC1 wideband device and never could get it to interface with the HP Tuners software I bought. The car does not have a Mass Air Sensor, so it is running a generic Speed Density tune. It starts and runs fine, but it really needs tuning to get the most out of it.
Vehicle sold in November 2009.
Aug 25
Now that I have fixed the oil leak issue and test driven the car, I will post journal updates in real time.
While I was testing the car on stands, I was able to eliminate all warning (idiot) lights. After it had sat due to the oil leak, several had turned up.
I've put all of 4 miles on it test driving it only to find several issues:
1) Check engine light illuminated on dash. Codes include EGR, AIR, and MAF, all of which are not there. Computer (PCM) locked by a prior tuner, so I can't modify anything. I replaced it with the one from my RX7 until I can find another.
2) Parking brake and ABS lights illuminated on the dash. The rear brakes were worn out. I'm redoing the brakes and upgrading to thicker 540 rears and larger 850 fronts. Still need to find a pair of calipers for the front- the junkyard i bought them from sent me rears.
3) Battery light illuminated on dash. I think the battery died out after sitting so long. I had charged it prior to use and it will not hold a good charge. Apparently the battery must be in top shape on these cars or there will be several problems. The brake lights could be related to this. I've ordered an Optima Red Top to install here.
The car made about 5 PSI in third gear- I didn't want to go too fast or run it to hard at this time. Although I only put about 2 miles on it before I pulled the motor, the difference is night & day.
Once all this is done, I plan to have it aligned, tuned, and the exhaust professionally redone.
Feb 01
INDEX- Feb 1
I am new to FQuick and am trying to format this information so it can sum up what I have learned about this conversion, and also be easy to access for readers. The dates indicated are not the actual dates work was performed; they are just to put the information in a timeline. Since the Journal is last entry first, I will revise the dates to show the first stuff to be done as last (make sense?).
I bought the car in September 2007, and am nearly finished with the mechanics of the conversion in February 2008. I will list information by date in a progressive fashion:
General Info- January 1
Auto to Manual Swap December 1
Motor, transmission, driveshaft, and large case differential- November 1
Motor and transmission mounting- October 1
Engine Accessories, Hydroboost brakes, Electrical wiring, and added gauges- September 1
Cooling, fuel, and oil systems- August 1
Exhaust- July 1
Turbocharger and intercooler- June 1
Vacuum and PCV systems- May 1
Completion and miscellaneous- April 1
Jan 01
This is a 1994 BMW 525iT Wagon, also known as a "Touring". It has a 2.5L straight 6 motor and automatic transmission. When I bought the car in September 2007, it had 194,000 miles and a nice set of 18" M-Parallel wheels.
EDIT- I removed the pictures from here since they made the page hard to display. They are in the photo album.
My History
Prior to this wagon, I have installed a Chevy Gen 1 motor & T5 trans into a 1984 Mazda RX7 (no longer owned), the LT1 motor and T56 trans from my Trans Am into a 1975 Datsun 280Z, a Chevy Gen 3 LM7 5.3L V8 with Tremec TKO600 trans into a 1988 Toyota Supra, and a Chevy Gen 3 L33 5.3L High Output V8 into a 1988 Mazda RX7 convertible. I figured it was time to move on to Europe.
BMW E34 5 Series
I have always liked the style of the 5 series BMWs made from 1989 through 1995 known as the E34 model. It was available as either a sedan (the entire model run) or as a wagon (1992-1995). The BMW model number breaks down as follows:
5- Series of car
25- Displacement of motor
Motors available ranged from the 2.5L and 3.5L inline sixes along with 3.0L and 4.0L V8s. Unlike American cars at the time, most of these models could be had with a manual transmission. All wagons imported to the US were automatic.
This car is a 525iT, with the "T" suffix meaning touring or wagon bodystyle. Once completed, it will become a 553iT!
CONCEPT
The concept of this vehicle is to remove the BMW engine and transmission thereby making way for yet another Chevy V8 and T56 six-speed manual transmission.
Motors
The motors I am looking at using are from Chevy Trucks:
The LM7 is an iron block/aluminum head 5.3L version, rated around 295 HP/330 TQ. These typically cost $400~600 at a local junkyard. This is the motor in my 1988 Supra.
The L33 is the high output aluminum block & head 5.3L motor rated around 310 HP/330 TQ. These typically cost $800~1000 at a local junkyard. This is the motor (along with a Z06 cam & springs) in my RX7.
The LQ4 is an iron block/aluminum head 6.0L version rated around 330 HP/350 TQ. These typically cost $1000 and up at a junkyard, although "light burn" (fire damaged) ones can be found for under $700. Fire damaged motors typically have the composite intake and wiring damaged, which is not a factor for me since I will be replacing the intake and wiring anyway.
I obtained weights for the various motors, and I found the M50 BMW motor is 194 KG or 427 pounds. The Gen 3 aluminum block motors are 430 pounds, and the iron block ones are 520.
Right about now you are probably wondering, why not use an LS1? Often, people think the LS1 is the only way to go but in reality the truck motors only give up 400 ccs and around 20~30 HP from an LS1. Most of the LS1 motors for sale are in the range of $2000 and have 80K+ miles on them. The iron block truck motors have a lower 9.25~9.5:1 compression ratio, making them a better candidate for a turbo setup.
Speaking of which...
I have a Garrett turbocharger and front mount intercooler leftover from my Supra V8 swap, and would like to incorporate it here if there is room to do so. This should put the motor well over 500 HP with minimal boost.
After careful review of the options, I have decided to buy another L33 all aluminum motor. I will add another Z06 cam and a set of LQ4 heads to drop the compression to just under 9.0:1, along with the front mount turbo with intercooler. This combo should make in the range of 500 HP with minimal (6 psi) of boost and be very streetable.
Transmissions
I am planning on using a Tremec T56 six-speed manual transmission. It seems like the prices of these has gone up quite a bit since I last bought one. Another alternative is the Tremec TKO series five-speed transmission. I have a TKO 600 in the Supra, and while there were some challenges getting everything to fit, it actually worked out well for that application since it has a cable speedometer output. This is not a factor in the BMW since the speedometer drive is from the differential.
This page is just being formatted for now, it will be updated as the swap progresses.
N/A
18" M-Parallel wheels.
N/A
N/A
N/A
2005 Chevy L33 5.3L V8:
317 heads to lower CR to 9:1
Z06 cam
LS6 springs
LS7 clutch & flywheel
Garrett GT37 turbocharger
Front mount intercooler
HP Tuners custom tunig
2002 Tremec F-body T56 six-speed manual transmission
BMW 750i large case 3.64:1 limited slip differential
Sony MEX-1GP head unit, Profile 70W/channel amp, Infinity component speakers
N/A
4 Comments on Swap_A_Holic's 5 Series
wow man thats gonna be so sick when your finished . best of luck
Thanks for the comments. I am getting the hang of the Journal here and am updating it as I can.
WOW! Amazing documentation! Awesome project! This is awesome! A turbo LS powered BMW....freakin awesome man...keep us updated!
Amazing project. Great to see details on this web site. I cannot wait for more updates.